Irvington's River City Grille, Fresh and Dependable

I scratch my head. Why aren’t I a bigger fan of

Can it be I still pine for the days of Benny’s Seafood Diner, when I would put my name on the list and hang out for 45-minutes with the rest of Irvington? And whatever became of Mike the bartender?

Can it be the front step I always trip on, entering and exiting, despite the “Watch Your Step” sign and hostess Tracy’s warning to watch my step.

I even asked on my last visit, “Why don’t you guys just remove the darn step?” Patiently, she replied, “We’re not allowed. You know, anything that makes sense is against the law.”  Amen.

And it can’t be that big, roasted garlic hanging out in the breadbasket. They got rid of that long ago.

No wonder my wife Isabel says I’m such a curmudgeon.

I arrived last week, lunchtime, determined to eat healthy. I was heading to the penitentiary afterwards and I didn’t want that heavy, bloated, guilty feeling.

I looked around; the place was filled with kids coloring on the tablecloths. Nice touch. Yet it was still a heckuva lot quieter than Club Car on the East Coast. I grabbed one of those matching high chair/high tables and settled in for a Cobb salad or reasonable facsimile.

But then I spied the chicken, bacon, and cheddar wrap with candied onions with zingy mayo. I’m making up the zingy. Plus skinny, crispy shoestring fries. I’m not making them up.  There goes the salad. And maybe a glass of that Viognier from Cally; It’s only 8 bucks.

The couple behind me was talking about when the Tappan Zee was going to fall into the river. That made me feel at home. (

And why shouldn’t I have the strawberry/lemonade sorbet?  I realize, I do like this place. In fact, I remember some very tasty blackened fish tacos with pico de gallo the night, recently we caught Roger McGuinn around the corner.

I can watch my step. You should, too.

Crowd: Despite the Dow’s Lane graduation, It’s an adulty establishment.

Think About:  the crispy goat cheese salad if you have more willpower

Don’t Miss: the pan-fried chicken cutlet with arugula, endive, and radicchio

Bring: A friend and talk local.

Essentials: River City Grille  6 South Broadway   Irvington  914.591.2033

rivercitygrille.com